1920s Paris; revived by minimalist French-girl labels

Garçonne

1920s androgynous boyish-girl French look — bobbed hair, sailor collars, Coco Chanel jersey suits and the deliberate erasure of the feminine curve.

Palette: navy ivory camel black tweed grey burgundy
Signature garments: jersey skirt suit long cardigan pleated knife skirt sailor collar blouse necktie flat oxford shoe cloche hat
Canonical brands: Chanel (vintage) Margaux Lonnberg Sezane Rouje Maison Kitsune vintage thrift

About

Garçonne (French for 'boyish girl', after Victor Margueritte's 1922 scandal-novel La Garçonne) names the androgynous wing of 1920s women's fashion — the shorter, sportier, more masculine-coded sister of the Flapper. Hair was cropped into a sharp Eton crop or bob; the silhouette flattened the bust and erased the waist; tailored jersey suits, simple straight tunics, long cardigans, neckties, sailor collars and pleated knife skirts replaced the corseted curves that had ruled Edwardian dress. Coco Chanel was its central designer, channelling menswear fabrics (jersey, tweed, navy wool) into clothes that let women move. The look is currently revived by minimalist French-girl wardrobes, Margaux Lonnberg-style Parisian labels, and a small contingent of vintage menswear enthusiasts working androgynous tailoring back into womenswear.

Not Flapper — Garçonne is the androgynous boyish counterpart to the beaded-fringe Flapper, drawing on menswear tailoring instead of cocktail-hour glitter.

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